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Looking at my reflection, I seem to have on oversized shimmering pantaloons, seen just for my eyes. Youngsters play in a rock pool imitating sea nymphs, and adjacent sits a talking pea in a display case, beside a towering mound of cushions. This is the domain of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), one of the 19th century’s most beloved storytellers. I’m in the city of Odense, on the island of the island of Fyn in the southern region of the Danish kingdom, to explore Andersen’s timeless impact in his home town a century and a half after his passing, and to experience a handful of enchanted tales of my own.

The Cultural Center: The Andersen Museum

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the town's cultural center honoring the writer, including his childhood house. An expert explains that in past designs of the museum there was minimal emphasis on the author's tales. The writer’s life was explored, but The Ugly Duckling were absent. For guests who come to Odense in search of narrative enchantment, it was a little lacking.

The redevelopment of Odense city centre, diverting a major road, made it possible to reconsider how the local celebrity could be commemorated. An international design contest gave the architects from Japan Kengo Kuma and Associates the project, with the museum's fresh perspective at the core of the structure. The unique wooden museum with connected spiralling spaces launched to great fanfare in 2021. “We have attempted to build a place where we move beyond simply describing the author, but we communicate similarly to Andersen: with humour, satire and viewpoint,” says the curator. Even the gardens take this approach: “The outdoor area for wanderers and for giants, it’s designed to give you a sense of smallness,” he notes, a goal accomplished by thoughtful gardening, experimenting with height, size and numerous twisting trails in a unexpectedly limited space.

The Writer's Legacy

The author penned several memoirs and frequently provided conflicting accounts. HC Andersens Hus takes this approach fully; typically the views of his acquaintances or fragments of correspondence are presented to gently question the writer's personal account of incidents. “The author is the guide, but he's untrustworthy,” says the expert. The outcome is a fascinating whirlwind tour of the author's biography and creations, thought processes and best-loved stories. This is stimulating and playful, for mature visitors and children, with a bonus basement fantasy realm, the pretend town, for the children.

Discovering the City

Back in the physical town, the modest urban center of Odense is picturesque, with historic pathways and historic timber buildings finished in bright colours. The author's presence is all around: the traffic lights display the writer with his distinctive top hat, metal shoe prints offer a free Andersen walking tour, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Each summer this focus culminates with the regular Andersen celebration, which honors the writer's impact through visual arts, movement, stage shows and music.

During my visit, the multi-day celebration had 500 shows, many were complimentary. As I explore Odense, I encounter painted stilt-walkers, spooky creatures and an writer impersonator telling stories. I hear empowering poetry and see an incredible late-night performance with graceful performers lowering from the town hall and hanging from a crane. Still to come this year are lectures, creative sessions for all ages and, broadening the storytelling legacy further than the writer, the city’s regular wonder event.

Every excellent enchanted locations need a fortress, and this region boasts over a hundred manors and manor houses around the area

Cycling and Exploration

As in other Danish regions, bicycles are the best way to get about in Odense and a “bicycle route” meanders through the downtown area. Departing from my accommodation, I ride to the public port-side aquatic facility, then out of town for a circuit around the nearby islet, a compact territory linked by a road to the primary land. City residents have outdoor meals here following their day, or appreciate a quiet hour fishing, paddleboarding or bathing.

In town, I dine at the themed restaurant, where the food selection is based on the writer's motifs and tales. The verse Denmark, My Native Land appears at the restaurant, and owner the restaurateur recites passages, translated into English, as he introduces the meal. This is a practice repeated often in my days in the city, the local residents appreciate narratives and it appears sharing tales is continuously on the menu here.

Manor House Visits

Each wonderful fairytale destinations require a palace, and Fyn boasts over a hundred manors and stately homes around the area. Taking day trips from town, I tour Egeskov Castle, Europe’s best-preserved moated palace. Although large sections are open to visitors, the castle is also the personal dwelling of the aristocratic owners and his spouse, the princess. I ponder if she might sense a small legume through a stack of {mattresses